Cuppage Plaza, Singapore  |  Omakase Review

March 2026  |  Yukiwari Ichige Omakase  |  18+ Courses

I. Ambience & Setting

Sushi Masa by Ki-setsu occupies a discreet corner of the sixth floor of Cuppage Plaza — a mid-century commercial block that stands in quiet contrast to the gleaming towers of Orchard Road. The restaurant’s very concealment is part of its identity: one must seek it out, ascending through unpretentious corridors before arriving at an eight-seat counter of polished hinoki cypress and cool grey concrete.

The spatial design subscribes to the Japanese aesthetic philosophy of ma — the productive use of negative space. Every object is considered. Pale LED strips throw warm pools of light over the pass, while the remainder of the room retreats into deliberate shadow. There are no superfluous decorations. The centrepiece is the chef himself.

Chef Masa occupies the well-lit stage behind the counter with the quiet authority of a craftsman who has nothing to prove. The proximity of the eight seats to the chef creates an atmosphere that is simultaneously theatrical and intimate — closer to a private lesson than a restaurant service. Conversation is hushed but unhurried. Background music, if present, is imperceptible.

The sensory palette of the room is muted: aged wood, raw stone, the faint mineral scent of immaculately fresh seafood, and the gentle steam of warm shari rice. The overall hue of the space is a warm umbra — amber and deep charcoal, punctuated by the white of fresh fish and the glint of a single Japanese knife.

Noise Level: Library-quiet. Conversation with chef encouraged

Lighting: Warm directional LEDs over counter; ambient low-light throughout

Seating Capacity: Eight guests per sitting (one seating per evening)

Dress Code: Smart casual — implicit; respectful attire recommended

Overall Ambience Score: 4.6 / 5

II. In-Depth Meal Analysis

The Yukiwari Ichige Omakase unfolds across 18 or more courses, each calibrated to a seasonal logic rooted in the Edomae tradition. ‘Yukiwari’ — meaning the cleaving of snow — evokes the precise moment winter cedes to early spring, and the menu honours this threshold through a progression of delicate cold-weather ingredients followed by tentative harbingers of warmth.

Opening Courses: Aperture

Tofu with Uni and Lily Bulb  |  Rating: 3.5/5

The meal opens with a composed block of silken tofu, its surface barely set, draped with sea urchin roe and thin petals of lily bulb (yurine). The tofu is locally sourced and carefully drained to prevent the pooling of excess moisture. Texturally, it presents as a cool, yielding mass that collapses cleanly on the palate. The uni introduces saline, iodic sweetness, while the lily bulb contributes a faint, starchy earthiness. The combination is gentle — perhaps deliberately so — calibrated to prepare the digestive system and the sensory apparatus for what follows.

Hue: Ivory white with amber-gold uni. Texture: Silken, custard-like. Flavour vector: Mild, oceanic, subtly sweet.

Winter Spinach  |  Rating: 3.0/5

A palate-refreshing interlude of blanched winter spinach, briefly shocked in cold water to preserve its vivid chlorophyll. Dressed with a thin ribbon of sesame-inflected dashi, the dish functions architecturally within the menu — cleansing lingering dairy notes from the tofu while priming the appetite with vegetal freshness. Unremarkable in isolation; essential as punctuation.

Hue: Deep forest green. Texture: Yielding, lightly resistant. Flavour vector: Clean, grassy, mineral.

Squid Ball with Bonito and Hidden Uni Core  |  Rating: 4.2/5

This is the first technical flourish of the evening and its finest warm starter. A sphere of handmade squid paste is poached or steamed until uniformly bouncy, then presented atop a shallow pool of reduced bonito dashi. The exterior delivers the characteristic elasticity of well-worked ika surimi — a satisfying, almost playful resistance before yielding. Within, a concealed hemisphere of raw sea urchin creates a sudden richness that transforms the mouthfeel entirely: from taut and springy to cream-soft within a single bite. The structural surprise is the dish’s masterstroke.

Hue: Pearlescent white exterior, custard-gold core. Texture: Elastic casing, molten centre. Flavour vector: Briny, umami-rich, abruptly oceanic.

Sushi Progression: The Core

Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper)  |  Rating: 4.5/5

The sushi counter opens with one of Japan’s most prized white fish. The kinmedai — aged briefly over a period of hours to concentrate flavour and achieve optimal moisture retention — is laid over a compact log of seasoned Koshihikari shari. At room temperature, the flesh presents a slightly opalescent quality; its fat content renders it butter-soft on the palate. A barely perceptible sweetness in the finish distinguishes the kinmedai from milder white fish such as hirame. The rice temperature is precisely calibrated — warm enough to meld with the fish, cool enough not to accelerate the deterioration of its delicate oils.

Hue: Translucent rose-ivory with a faint iridescent sheen. Texture: Silky, dissolving. Flavour vector: Rich, buttery, long sweet finish.

Hokkigai (Hokkaido Soft Shell Clam)  |  Rating: 5.0/5

The standout piece of the sushi progression. Hokkigai is sourced from the frigid waters of Hokkaido, and the sub-zero provenance is detectable in the almost crystalline freshness of each bite. Visually, the clam presents in deep burgundy-crimson, strikingly vivid against the white rice. The texture departs categorically from the yielding softness of the kinmedai: it is firm, crunchy in the initial bite, transitioning to a satisfying chew that releases its natural salinity progressively. No seasoning obscures its intrinsic marine character. A singular, technically impeccable piece.

Hue: Deep burgundy-crimson. Texture: Firm, audibly crunchy, progressively tender. Flavour vector: Briny, clean, intensely oceanic.

Negitoro with Uni, Shiso and Fermented Chilli Soy  |  Rating: 4.0/5

Chef Masa’s rendition of negitoro departs from tradition. Rather than a rolled temaki, the minced fatty tuna is compressed between two wafer-thin crackers of rice or wonton derivation, creating a construction with the geometry of a mille-feuille and the textural register of a canapé. Shiso provides a bright, anise-adjacent herbal note; sweet onion contributes mild pungency; fermented chilli soy introduces a measured acidity and umami complexity. The structural contrast — the sharp snap of the wafer against the creamy yielding mass of tuna and uni — is deliberately engineered and expertly executed.

Hue: Deep red-brown tuna, jade shiso, ivory wafer. Texture: Crisp shatter / creamy interior. Flavour vector: Rich, herbaceous, fermented complexity.

Sumi-Ika (Golden Cuttlefish)  |  Rating: 4.0/5

The sumi-ika is the most texturally distinctive piece of the sequence. Unlike the sticky, membrane-forward pull of common squid, this golden cuttlefish variety offers a ‘clean-cut’ textural profile — firm at first contact, then releasing with an immediate, almost mechanical precision. The sweetness is elegant and unhurried. The absence of any residual sliminess is a mark of both provenance and preparation discipline.

Hue: Pale translucent gold-ivory. Texture: Firm initial bite, rapid clean dissolution. Flavour vector: Delicate sweetness, faint marine mineral.

Akami (Lean Bluefin Tuna)  |  Rating: 4.2/5

The akami is sourced from a premium bluefin and aged using the traditional zukemethod — a brief marinade in a blend of soy sauce and mirin — which deepens its native umami profile while imparting a lacquer-dark mahogany hue. The lean flesh carries intensity without heaviness, and its iron-mineral undertone — characteristic of well-sourced bluefin — lingers pleasantly on the palate. The shari ratio is precisely weighted so as not to overwhelm the protein.

Hue: Deep mahogany-red. Texture: Dense, smooth, cleanly sliced. Flavour vector: Deep umami, iron-mineral, saline.

Baby Sea Eel (Seasonal Delicacy)  |  Rating: 3.5/5

A rare seasonal offering that presents with the translucent, glass-like quality of spun sugar. The eel is harvested in its juvenile stage, before melanin has fully developed, rendering it near-invisible against the white porcelain. The texture is naturally slippery and delicate; Chef Masa pairs it with a wrapping of toasted nori whose fibrous bite provides the structural counterpoint necessary to make the delicacy palatable. The flavour is subtle to the point of near-transparency — ocean water filtered through a membrane.

Hue: Translucent, glass-clear, silver. Texture: Silky, slippery, structurally fragile. Flavour vector: Extremely delicate, clean brine.

Amaebi (Sweet Shrimp)  |  Rating: 4.5/5

The amaebi arrives at the apex of its seasonal availability, served raw with the carapace removed to expose flesh of a near-fluorescent coral pink. The texture is simultaneously firm and yielding — not unlike a perfectly ripe stone fruit — and the natural sugars are so concentrated as to make ‘sweet shrimp’ feel like an understatement. A light dressing of ponzu or citrus may amplify rather than mask its intrinsic flavour. The mouthfeel is distinctly buttery: the roe, if present, contributes an additional layer of oceanic richness.

Hue: Fluorescent coral-pink. Texture: Firm-yielding, butter-soft. Flavour vector: Intensely sweet, briny, rich.

Grilled Scallop with Toasted Seaweed  |  Rating: 4.0/5

A plump specimen from Hokkaido is presented directly from the grill, its surface briefly caramelised to develop Maillard-reaction sweetness. The seaweed wrapping is lightly torched to a state of structural rigidity and deep savouriness — a vehicle that unifies protein and rice while providing the essential textural register of crunch the preceding pieces have not offered.

Hue: Golden-seared exterior, ivory interior. Texture: Crisp nori, tender interior. Flavour vector: Sweet, savoury, umami-rich.

Yellowtail with Egg Yolk Sauce  |  Rating: 4.2/5

Lightly torched to accentuate the marbling within the flesh, the buri (adult yellowtail) is presented beneath a veil of egg yolk sauce — a rich emulsion reminiscent of a Japanese-inflected hollandaise. The flame coaxes additional fat to the surface, creating a micro-rendered exterior that intensifies the fish’s native sweetness. The sauce adds textural opacity and richness without overpowering. The piece holds its structural integrity through consumption — firm enough to resist fork pressure yet tender on the palate.

Hue: Amber-seared gold, ivory interior, yellow-gold sauce. Texture: Firm exterior, tender interior. Flavour vector: Rich, buttery, sweet.

Red Lotus Root (Palate Cleanser)  |  Rating: 3.0/5

A brief architectural pause: thinly sliced lotus root, its characteristic lacy cross-section intact, lightly pickled in seasoned rice vinegar. The disc of vegetable presents in a deep carmine hue — achieved through a brief maceration with red shiso or ume — and delivers a sharp, zesty brightness that functions as a palate reset. Functional rather than spectacular.

Hue: Deep carmine-crimson with cream lacework. Texture: Crunchy, brittle. Flavour vector: Sharp vinegar acidity, faint sweetness.

Chutoro (Medium Fatty Tuna)  |  Rating: 4.5/5

The chutoro represents the philosophical centre of the omakase’s tuna progression — a median point between the lean intensity of akami and the unchecked luxury of otoro. The marbling is visible: white intramuscular fat rendered in delicate striations through the deep red flesh. On the palate, it delivers a complex balance: initial saline depth from the lean muscle, followed by a wave of fat-soluble richness that lingers. The temperature management of the shari is critical here; any excess warmth would accelerate the fat, eliminating the structural contrast.

Hue: Marbled rose-red with ivory fat striations. Texture: Silken, slowly dissolving. Flavour vector: Rich, saline, iron-mineral, complex.

Kohada (Gizzard Shad)  |  Rating: 4.0/5

The kohada is the traditional benchmark of an Edomae chef’s technical mastery. The fish is cured in a graduated salt-and-rice-vinegar solution whose concentration and duration are calibrated to the size and fat content of the individual specimen. The result is a bright, silver-skinned sliver of fish whose primary flavour vector is sheer, clean acidity — a refreshing structural counterpoint to the fattier pieces that precede it. The characteristic metallic skin is edible and contributes a faint mineral note to each bite.

Hue: Bright silver-chrome skin, pearlescent white flesh. Texture: Slightly firmed by cure, smooth. Flavour vector: Bright acidity, clean marine, mineral.

Monk Fish Liver (Ankimo)  |  Rating: 3.0/5

The ankimo is pan-seared rather than steamed in the traditional Edomae manner — a choice that creates a caramelised crust and slightly more concentrated flavour profile. The liver is paired with slow-cooked caramelised onions, whose sweetness partially offsets the organ’s richness. While the textural execution is technically accomplished — uniformly creamy throughout with no grainy or overcooked sections — the accompanying components lack the acidic component (ponzu, momiji-oroshi, or yuzu) that traditionally balances ankimo’s cholesterol-dense richness. A more assertive condiment would elevate this piece considerably.

Hue: Deep amber-brown, caramelised surface. Texture: Dense, creamy, uniform. Flavour vector: Rich, savoury, needs acid counterpoint.

Ice Plant and Mozuku Seaweed  |  Rating: 3.0/5

A composed interlude of ice plant (a succulent with a salinity-laden crisp texture) and mozuku — a thin, lightly vinegared seaweed native to Okinawa. Together they form a briny, refreshing palette cleanser that rehydrates the palate and signals the transition toward the meal’s climactic conclusion. The visual presentation is striking: deep olive-brown seaweed against the translucent, dew-covered spines of the ice plant.

Hue: Translucent green ice plant, deep olive mozuku. Texture: Crisp, slippery. Flavour vector: Briny, lightly acidic, marine.

Otoro (Fatty Tuna, Open-Flame Grilled)  |  Rating: 4.8/5

The otoro — the most luxurious cut of the bluefin, sourced from the belly closest to the head — is presented in a departure from tradition: grilled briefly over an open binchōtan flame rather than served raw. The heat renders the subcutaneous fat, creating a surface char of extraordinary fragrance while accelerating the internal temperature just enough to begin the liquefaction of its intramuscular marbling. The result is a piece that is simultaneously smoky and molten — the textural equivalent of foie gras, but with the marine depth of the ocean. Among the finest pieces of the evening.

Hue: Caramelised amber surface, pale pink interior. Texture: Near-liquid, collapsing immediately. Flavour vector: Smoky, oceanic, profoundly rich.

Uni (Sea Urchin)  |  Rating: 4.8/5

Presented simply and without embellishment — a single lobe, or perhaps two, of Hokkaido sea urchin roe laid directly over shari. The uni exhibits the custard-like, barely-set consistency that distinguishes premium specimens from their watery or over-sweet counterparts. Its colour is a deep saffron-gold. On the palate, the characteristic brininess is present but measured, subsumed beneath a dominant register of oceanic sweetness and a creamy, umami-saturated finish. The texture is indistinguishable from cold crème caramel.

Hue: Saffron-gold, deep amber. Texture: Custard-soft, barely cohesive. Flavour vector: Rich, sweet, briny, profound umami.

Anago (Sea Eel)  |  Rating: 4.2/5

The conger eel is prized in Edomae tradition for its capacity to absorb nitsume — a reduced tare of eel bones, mirin, and soy — while retaining a light, cloud-like texture utterly distinct from the oilier freshwater unagi. Chef Masa’s anago is cooked to a near-soufflé lightness: the flesh separates in fine, fibrous layers with almost no resistance. The nitsume glaze adds complexity and a lacquered depth of colour without weighing the piece down.

Hue: Deep lacquered mahogany, nitsume glaze. Texture: Extraordinarily light, fibrous, cloud-like. Flavour vector: Subtle sweet-savoury, clean, no residual oiliness.

Castella-Style Tamago  |  Rating: 4.0/5

The traditional tamago serves as the closing marker of the savoury progression — a piece by which the chef’s technical range is assessed. Chef Masa’s version mimics the Castella sponge cake, incorporating prawn paste and dashi into the egg mixture to produce a moister, airier result than the firmer Kyoto-style tamago. The caramelised crust signals the addition of mirin and sugar to the batter; the interior is yielding and light with deep umami undertones from concentrated dashi. The piece occupies a precise middle ground between confection and savoury.

Hue: Deep amber crust, pale saffron interior. Texture: Moist, airy, sponge-like. Flavour vector: Sweet-savoury, eggy, pronounced dashi umami.

Asari Miso Soup  |  Rating: 4.2/5

A transitional bowl of white miso dashi enriched with Manila clams (asari). The clams have been steamed directly within the soup, releasing their juices into the broth and intensifying its oceanic character. The miso acts as a gentle emulsifier, softening the briny impact while adding its own fermented complexity. The visual presentation is restrained: a clear lacquer bowl, the dark miso broth, three or four open shells.

Hue: Deep amber-tawny broth, ivory shells. Texture: Liquid. Flavour vector: Intensely umami, oceanic brine, fermented depth.

Strawberry (Dessert)  |  Rating: 3.5/5

The meal concludes with a single high-grade strawberry — likely from the Tochigi or Fukuoka prefecture, given the characteristic conical geometry and deep crimson colouration associated with Japanese premium cultivars. Served unadorned or with a minimal accompaniment of condensed milk, the fruit is undeniably of exceptional quality: sweet, slightly tart, and fragrant with rose-adjacent volatile esters. As a dessert conclusion, however, it feels structurally insufficient — a single ingredient, however premium, lacks the ceremonial weight appropriate to a meal of this ambition and duration. A composed dessert featuring Japanese confectionery or a light sorbet would deliver a more satisfying resolution.

Hue: Deep crimson-ruby. Texture: Taut skin, yielding flesh. Flavour vector: Sweet, lightly tart, fragrant.

III. Dish Ratings at a Glance

DishRatingTasting Note
Tofu with Uni★★★★☆ 3.5/5Gentle aperture; delicate but understated
Winter Spinach★★★☆☆ 3/5Essential palate cleanser; simple
Squid Ball with Uni Core★★★★☆ 4.2/5Structural surprise; textural triumph
Kinmedai★★★★★ 4.5/5Buttery, dissolving, sweet finish
Hokkigai (Soft Shell Clam)★★★★★ 5/5Best in show; crystalline freshness
Negitoro Wafer★★★★☆ 4/5Creative deconstruction; excellent contrast
Sumi-Ika★★★★☆ 4/5Clean-cut elegance; delicate sweetness
Akami★★★★☆ 4.2/5Deep umami, iron-mineral character
Baby Sea Eel★★★★☆ 3.5/5Rare; texture needs nori support
Amaebi★★★★★ 4.5/5Seafood candy; supremely sweet
Grilled Scallop★★★★☆ 4/5Unified by toasted nori
Yellowtail / Egg Yolk★★★★☆ 4.2/5Torched richness, velvety sauce
Red Lotus Root★★★☆☆ 3/5Palate reset; pickling precise
Chutoro★★★★★ 4.5/5Philosophical centre of the tuna arc
Kohada★★★★☆ 4/5Benchmark Edomae curing; bright acidity
Ankimo★★★☆☆ 3/5Technically sound; needs acid element
Ice Plant / Mozuku★★★☆☆ 3/5Effective cleanser; visual interest
Otoro (Grilled)★★★★★ 4.8/5Near-transcendent; smoky, molten
Uni★★★★★ 4.8/5Custard-gold perfection
Anago★★★★☆ 4.2/5Cloud-light; immaculate nitsume
Castella Tamago★★★★☆ 4/5Sweet-savoury bridge; well-executed
Asari Miso Soup★★★★☆ 4.2/5Intense oceanic broth
Strawberry★★★★☆ 3.5/5Premium fruit; insufficient as finale

IV. Culinary Techniques & Recipes

The following section reconstructs the fundamental culinary techniques underlying selected dishes as observed from the counter — supplemented by established Edomae tradition.

Shari (Seasoned Sushi Rice)

The foundation of all nigiri. Chef Masa’s shari utilises Koshihikari rice, cooked at a water-to-rice ratio of approximately 1:1.1 by volume. The cooked rice is transferred to a hangiri (wooden tub) and dressed with a blend of rice vinegar (approximately 70ml per 500g cooked rice), sugar (20g), and sea salt (10g), dissolved and cooled before application. The rice is folded — never stirred — using a shamoji (wooden paddle) whilst simultaneously fanned to halt cooking and remove excess moisture. The resulting shari is served at body temperature (approximately 37°C), lightly seasoned, and barely cohesive.

Hokkigai (Hokkaido Surf Clam) Preparation

The clam is received live and shucked to order. The adductor muscle is removed cleanly; the mantle is trimmed to expose the characteristic deep crimson siphon. The piece is scored lightly with parallel cuts to facilitate its opening on the palate and to ensure the soy brush adheres evenly. No additional seasoning is applied; the chef relies entirely on the intrinsic flavour of the specimen to carry the piece.

Negitoro Wafer Construction

The toro (fatty tuna belly) is minced using a combination of knife-back scraping and fine chopping until the fat and muscle are fully integrated. The resulting paste is seasoned with finely julienned shiso, minced sweet onion, and a fermented chilli soy sauce (a blend of aged tamari, fresh chilli, and koji). The mixture is pressed to a uniform depth between two wafers of flash-fried wonton skin or rice cracker, and served immediately to preserve the structural integrity of the outer shell.

Squid Ball (Ika Surimi) with Concealed Uni

Squid is cleaned, dried, and minced with a small proportion of corn starch and egg white to bind. The paste is seasoned with salt and white pepper. A quenelle of raw sea urchin roe is embedded within the centre of a formed ball of the squid paste before steaming. The ball is cooked at 85°C steam for approximately 6–8 minutes until uniformly elastic but still moist internally. Plated atop a shallow bonito dashi reduction.

Castella Tamago

Unlike traditional tamago, the Castella variant incorporates a binding of fine prawn paste (approx. 15% by weight) into the egg mixture. Eggs (4 large), dashi (150ml), mirin (30ml), sugar (40g), soy sauce (5ml), and the prawn paste are combined and strained. The mixture is cooked in a rectangular copper tamagoyaki pan over medium-low heat in multiple thin layers, each rolled before the addition of the next. The final roll is pressed in a bamboo mat for five minutes to set its form, then sliced and lightly torched.

V. Practical Information & Booking

Restaurant Details

Address: 5 Koek Road, #06-03, Cuppage Plaza, Singapore 228796

Telephone: +65 9752 5851

Nearest MRT: Somerset Station (NS Line) – approx. 5 minutes on foot

Opening Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 7pm till late

Private Bookings: Available on Sundays upon request

Closed: Mondays

Omakase Menu Details

Menu Name: Yukiwari Ichige Omakase

Price: SGD 320++ per person (subject to service charge and GST)

Number of Courses: 18 or more, at chef’s discretion

Seating Format: Single evening seating; eight seats

Reservation Lead Time: Typically 2–4 weeks; contact directly for availability

Delivery & Takeaway

Sushi Masa by Ki-setsu does not offer delivery or takeaway services. The omakase format is intrinsically linked to the counter experience — the temperature management of shari, the sequential progression of courses, and the direct communication between chef and diner are integral elements that cannot be replicated outside the restaurant environment.

For private dining or corporate bookings, the restaurant may accommodate bespoke arrangements upon request. Prospective guests are advised to contact the restaurant directly via telephone or through the official channels listed above.

Directions

Alight at Somerset MRT Station (NS Line). Take Exit B, C, or D toward Orchard Road. Cross Orchard Road and proceed to Cuppage Road. Walk south along Cuppage Road to Cuppage Plaza. Take the lift to the sixth floor and proceed to unit #06-03. Total walking time from the MRT is approximately five minutes.

VI. Overall Verdict

Sushi Masa by Ki-setsu operates at the elevated tier of Singapore’s omakase landscape — a category that grows increasingly competitive with each season. What distinguishes Chef Masa’s offering is not technical extravagance but technical discipline: the Hokkigai, the Otoro, the Chutoro, and the Uni are each rendered with such precision as to render critique superfluous. The shari temperature, the aging protocols, and the sequencing logic all reflect the education of a chef who has internalised rather than merely learned the principles of Edomae.

Areas for development are few but identifiable: the ankimo would benefit from an acid-forward condiment; the dessert course requires greater ambition; and the Baby Sea Eel, while a genuine novelty, verges on textural monotony without more assertive accompaniment.

For guests willing to surrender an evening to the unhurried pace of counter dining, Sushi Masa offers what few restaurants in Singapore can: genuine intimacy with the craft of sushi.

Overall Rating: 4.3 / 5

Highly Recommended  |  Reserve in Advance  |  Dress Respectfully