AIR Dempsey Restaurant

by | Jan 3, 2026 | Uncategorized | 0 comments

Restaurant Overview

AIR CCCC (Awareness, Impact, and Responsibility – Circular Campus and Cooking Club) is a modernist concept restaurant located in a historic 40,000 sq ft complex at Dempsey Hill. The former civil servants’ clubhouse has been transformed into a sustainability-focused dining destination with research space, cooking club, and intimate dining areas.

Location: 25B Dempsey Road, Singapore 249918

Ambience & Atmosphere

The Journey

The restaurant experience begins with a 120-meter unsheltered walk from the remote Samy’s Curry carpark. An orange-marked garden path winds through landscaped grounds, crossing a wooden walkway that builds anticipation. The approach feels deliberately removed from urban convenience, creating a sense of discovery.

Setting & Design

  • Architecture: Two-storey modernist building with historical significance
  • Ground Floor: Casual dining space facing a lawn, open and airy
  • Second Floor: Studio housing research space, cooking club, and intimate dining
  • Garden: Working edible landscape featuring lantern chillies, starfruit, jambu air, rambutan, bananas, wormwood, turmeric, borage, moringa, belimbing, and buah keluak

Atmosphere Rating: 3/5

The setting emphasizes sustainability and connection to ingredients over conventional restaurant luxury. The ambience is purposefully understated, focusing attention on the food philosophy rather than polished dining theatre.

Menu Structure & Dining Format

Lunch Service (11:30 AM – 3 PM)

Set Menu Options:

  • Two courses (starter + main): $58++
  • Three courses (starter + main + dessert): $68++

The simplified format removes decision fatigue while showcasing the restaurant’s ingredient-forward philosophy. Each course offers three choices, maintaining variety within constraint.

Wine Program

Curated selection covering major wine regions with focused entries per region. The concise list emphasizes quality over extensive choice, aligning with the restaurant’s minimalist approach.

Dish Analysis & Reviews

Bread Service

Purple Potato Flatbread with Mushroom “XO” Butter ($14++)

Aspects:

  • Indigenous ingredient adaptation (purple potato)
  • Umami-forward condiment (mushroom XO butter)
  • Premium pricing for bread course

Textures: Soft flatbread with yielding crumb, contrasting with rich, spreadable butter

Flavors: Earthy purple potato base, deeply savory mushroom XO with fermented complexity

Verdict: Exceptional execution but expensive as an add-on

Starters

1. Caesar Salad with Confit Duck & Grilled Coconut

Innovation Traits:

  • Subverts expectations of conventional Caesar
  • Southeast Asian ingredients (coconut, duck confit)
  • Maintains familiar format while introducing complexity

Textures:

  • Tender, oil-rich confit duck
  • Crisp grilled coconut shards
  • Traditional crisp lettuce base
  • Multiple textural condiments adding crunch

Flavor Profile:

  • Rich, fatty duck against bright acidity
  • Smoky char from grilled coconut
  • Layered seasoning beyond typical Caesar anchovy-garlic formula

Cooking Technique Analysis: Duck confit requires slow cooking in fat (typically 6-8 hours at 82-93°C) to break down tough leg meat into tender, preservable protein. The grilling of coconut adds Maillard reaction complexity.

2. Ceviche of Local Mahi Mahi with Pink Guava & Garden Herbs

Key Features:

  • Hyperlocal sourcing (local mahi mahi)
  • Tropical fruit integration (pink guava)
  • Garden-to-plate herb freshness

Textures:

  • Silky, raw fish “cooked” by citrus acid
  • Crisp guava providing textural contrast
  • Fresh herbs adding aromatic crunch

Flavor Dimensions:

  • Clean, sweet mahi mahi
  • Tropical brightness from pink guava
  • Citrus marinade providing acidity
  • Herbal top notes from fresh-picked herbs
  • Expert seasoning balancing all elements

Cooking Science: Ceviche uses acid denaturation rather than heat. Citric acid causes protein structures to tighten and turn opaque, mimicking cooked appearance while maintaining raw texture. Marination time typically 15-30 minutes for delicate fish.

Recipe Approach:

- Cube fresh mahi mahi (1cm dice)
- Marinate in lime/lemon juice (20 minutes)
- Dice pink guava finely
- Pick garden herbs (cilantro, mint, Thai basil)
- Season with sea salt, touch of sugar
- Dress with quality olive oil
- Serve immediately

3. Sweet Corn from Talula with White Corn Chutney & Emping Chips

Underestimated Excellence: Despite pub-snack appearance, this starter demonstrates sophistication through simplicity.

Aspects:

  • Premium ingredient sourcing (Talula corn)
  • Indonesian influence (emping chips from melinjo nuts)
  • Textural interplay of crisp and creamy

Textures:

  • Ultra-crisp emping chips (thin, brittle crunch)
  • Smooth, chunky corn chutney (vegetable pieces suspended in sauce)

Flavor Characteristics:

  • Natural sweetness of premium corn
  • Mild bitterness from emping (characteristic of melinjo)
  • Spiced complexity in chutney
  • Balanced seasoning preventing cloying sweetness

Cooking Instructions for Corn Chutney:

1. Char fresh corn kernels in dry pan (medium-high heat, 8-10 min)
2. Reserve half, blend half with coconut milk
3. Sauté shallots, garlic, ginger (5 minutes)
4. Add spices: turmeric, coriander, cumin
5. Combine blended corn, whole kernels
6. Simmer with sugar, vinegar (20 minutes)
7. Season with salt, adjust consistency
8. Cool to room temperature

Main Courses

1. Charred Spanish Mackerel with Pickled Onions, Zucchini & Scallop Sauce

Rating: Recommended Choice

Cooking Techniques:

  • High-heat charring for Maillard crust
  • Careful internal temperature control (mackerel overcooks easily)
  • Scallop sauce requiring emulsification technique
  • Quick pickling for onion acidity

Textures:

  • Crispy, blackened skin exterior
  • Smooth, flaky fish interior
  • Tender zucchini (likely quickly sautéed)
  • Crunchy pickled onions
  • Silky scallop sauce coating

Flavor Analysis:

  • Surprising Clean Taste: Mackerel typically carries strong, fishy, oily character. Chef successfully mitigated this through:
    • Ultra-fresh sourcing
    • Proper bleeding/handling
    • Acid balance from pickled onions
    • Scallop sauce adding sweetness without masking
  • Luxurious Elements: Scallop sauce elevates the dish, adding marine sweetness and richness

Cooking Method Recreation:

Mackerel Preparation:
1. Score skin in crosshatch pattern
2. Season generously with salt (draws moisture)
3. Rest 15 minutes, pat dry
4. Heat cast iron to smoking point
5. Oil fish, not pan
6. Sear skin-side down (4 minutes, don't move)
7. Flip briefly (1-2 minutes flesh side)
8. Rest 3 minutes before serving

Scallop Sauce:
1. Sear scallops in butter (2 min per side)
2. Remove scallops, deglaze with white wine
3. Add fish/seafood stock, reduce by half
4. Blend cooked scallops with reduced liquid
5. Strain through fine sieve
6. Mount with cold butter for glossy finish
7. Season with lemon juice, salt

2. Kampong Chicken with Tropical Coleslaw & Smoked Chilli Oil

Traits:

  • Heritage breed chicken (kampong = village)
  • Smaller, more muscular bird with deeper flavor
  • Southeast Asian flavor profile

Textures:

  • Firmer, more textured chicken meat (kampong characteristic)
  • Crunchy, refreshing coleslaw
  • Silky, spicy oil coating

Flavor Profile:

  • Gamier, more pronounced chicken flavor
  • Tropical fruit notes in coleslaw (likely papaya, mango, or green mango)
  • Smoky heat from chilli oil
  • Well-executed but predictable combination

Style: Comfort-leaning with local ingredients elevation

Ratings Breakdown

Food: 5/5

Exceptional ingredient quality, thoughtful preparation, innovative yet coherent flavor combinations. The kitchen demonstrates technical skill while honoring ingredient integrity.

Service: 3/5

Functional but unremarkable. The rating suggests competent but not elevated service standards.

Value: 3/5

At $58-68++ for lunch sets, pricing reflects the sustainability mission and premium ingredients, but may feel steep for portion sizes, particularly given the 3-star atmosphere rating.

Atmosphere: 3/5

The setting prioritizes concept over conventional dining comfort. The unsheltered walk, remote location, and minimalist interior won’t appeal to those seeking polished restaurant glamour.

Overall: 4 TOPs (out of 5)

Strong execution held back slightly by value perception and accessibility challenges.

Cooking Philosophy & Restaurant Essence

Core Principles

  1. Hyperlocal Sourcing: Garden ingredients, local fish, regional produce
  2. Sustainability Focus: Circular campus concept, minimal waste
  3. Ingredient Transparency: Simple preparations highlighting quality
  4. Regional Identity: Southeast Asian ingredients and techniques
  5. Educational Mission: Research space and cooking club integration

Culinary Style

Modern Tropical Cuisine with emphasis on:

  • Acid balance (ceviches, pickles, citrus)
  • Natural sweetness (tropical fruits, premium vegetables)
  • Umami depth (XO butter, scallop sauce, fermented elements)
  • Textural contrast (crispy, smooth, crunchy, silky)

Delivery & Service Options

Operating Hours

Indoor Dining:

  • Breakfast: 8:00 AM – 11:00 AM
  • Lunch: 11:30 AM – 3:00 PM
  • Dinner: 5:00 PM – 11:00 PM

Outdoor Service:

  • SUN(RISE): Daily, 8:00 AM – 12:00 PM
  • SUN(SET): Fridays-Sundays only, 12:00 PM – 9:00 PM

Delivery Options

Not mentioned in review. Given the restaurant’s concept focusing on:

  • Farm-to-table freshness
  • Delicate preparations (ceviche, charred fish)
  • Experiential dining journey
  • Sustainable practices

It’s unlikely AIR CCCC offers delivery services. The restaurant model emphasizes the complete experience from garden walk to plated dish.

Reservation Recommendations

Given the remote location and set menu format, advance booking is strongly advised. The 120-meter unsheltered walk makes casual drop-ins impractical during rain.

Access & Practical Considerations

Getting There

By Car (Recommended):

  1. Set GPS to Samy’s Curry Restaurant
  2. Park at remote carpark (serves Long Beach & Samy’s)
  3. Look for directional sign, turn LEFT (not up stairs)
  4. Follow orange “AIR” text markers on garden path
  5. Walk 120 meters on unsheltered wooden walkway

Important Notes:

  • Wear appropriate footwear (garden path, wooden walkway)
  • Check weather (unsheltered walk)
  • Allow extra time for the walk (10-15 minutes from car)

Accessibility Concerns

  • Unsheltered 120m walk unsuitable during heavy rain
  • Garden path may be challenging for mobility issues
  • Remote location feels isolated

Who Should Visit

Ideal For:

  • Sustainability-conscious diners
  • Ingredient-quality enthusiasts
  • Adventurous eaters seeking innovation
  • Those interested in cooking philosophy
  • Groups willing to embrace the journey

May Not Suit:

  • Convenience-focused diners
  • Those with mobility challenges
  • Budget-conscious lunchers
  • People seeking traditional luxury atmosphere
  • Guests in formal attire (garden walk)

Final Verdict

AIR Dempsey (AIR CCCC) represents a bold vision for sustainable fine dining in Singapore. The restaurant asks diners to reconsider what luxury means, shifting focus from polished service and opulent spaces to ingredient integrity, culinary innovation, and environmental responsibility.

The food consistently impresses with its freshness, technical execution, and thoughtful flavor development. Dishes like the surprisingly refined mackerel and the deceptively simple corn starter showcase a kitchen that understands both classical technique and regional identity.

However, the restaurant’s uncompromising approach to its concept—the remote location, minimalist presentation, premium pricing—creates barriers that will limit its appeal. This is dining for the converted, for those who already value the story behind their plate as much as what’s on it.

Worth the journey? Yes, if you’re willing to meet the restaurant on its own terms. The food quality alone justifies the visit, and the commitment to sustainability and education makes AIR CCCC an important addition to Singapore’s dining landscape, even if it’s not always an easy one.