Old Lai Huat Seafood Restaurant - Maxthon

Restaurant Review

Old Lai Huat Seafood Restaurant stands as a testament to Singapore’s rich zi char heritage, carrying forward a culinary legacy that began in 1951. Operating since 1963 on Rangoon Road, this family-run establishment represents authentic old-school seafood zi char at its finest. The restaurant is helmed by the grandson of Lim Song Lai, the original creator of their iconic sambal belacan fish, with the former head chef from their Ophir Road and Lavender Street locations now commanding the kitchen.

The dining experience here revolves around bold, unapologetic flavors that don’t compromise on tradition. While the restaurant makes ambitious claims about being among Singapore’s best seafood establishments, the enduring popularity and multiple spin-offs bearing the Lai Huat name suggest there’s substance behind the confidence.

Rating: 4/5

Ambience & Atmosphere

Old Lai Huat embodies the quintessential Singaporean zi char aesthetic—unpretentious, functional, and focused squarely on the food rather than fancy decor. The setting is what you’d expect from an old-school seafood restaurant: practical round tables designed for communal dining, straightforward furniture that prioritizes comfort over style, and an atmosphere that hums with the energy of families and groups gathering for hearty meals.

The environment is casual and welcoming, free from pretension. Expect a lively buzz during peak hours, the clatter of plates, and the aromatic assault of wok hei and sambal filling the air. This isn’t a place for quiet, romantic dinners—it’s built for animated conversations, shared plates, and the joyful chaos of family gatherings. The lack of air-conditioning in some areas means you might work up a sweat while eating, which somehow feels appropriate given the fiery nature of many dishes on the menu.

Menu Overview

Old Lai Huat’s menu reads like a greatest hits compilation of Singaporean seafood zi char, with their signature sambal-based creations taking center stage.

Signature Dishes

Sambal Belacan Fish (from $40 for sole, from $42 for pomfret)

The crown jewel of the menu
Available with sole or pomfret
Whole fish preparation

Chilli Crab (from $50)

Made with their signature sambal base
Fresh, seasonal crab

Classic Zi Char Offerings

Black Pepper Crayfish (from $30)

Fan-favorite seafood option
Light black pepper preparation

Mee Goreng ($5/$8/$12 portions)

Essential carbohydrate accompaniment
Popular among regular patrons

Additional Offerings

The restaurant serves a full range of traditional zi char dishes beyond those highlighted, though specific menu details weren’t provided in the source material.

Signature Dish Analysis

Sambal Belacan Fish – Deep Dive

Visual Presentation The dish arrives as a dramatic centerpiece—a whole fish so thoroughly coated in vibrant red sambal that the crispy skin barely peeks through. The generous application of sambal isn’t just garnish; it’s a bold statement of flavor intent.

Textural Components

Crispy exterior: Despite the heavy sambal coating, the fish maintains its deep-fried crispness
Meaty flesh: Particularly notable in the sole preparation, the fish offers substantial, flaky texture
Sauce consistency: The sambal belacan provides a thick, clingy coating that adheres to every surface

Flavor Profile

Primary notes: Sweet and spicy dominate, with the belacan (fermented shrimp paste) adding umami depth
Heat level: Notably restrained—flavorful without being punishingly hot, accessible to most palates
Balance: The sweetness tempers the spice and the pungent belacan, creating harmony
Complexity: Layers of fermented, savory, sweet, and spicy notes develop across each bite

Aromatics The house-made sambal releases an intense, appetizing fragrance combining chili heat, shrimp paste funk, and aromatic spices that signals its presence across the dining room.

Fish Selection Impact

Sole (from $40): Meatier texture, more substantial portions, better value
Pomfret (from $42): Delicate, prized fish with finer flesh and subtle sweetness

Chilli Crab Analysis

Sauce Characteristics Built on the same sambal foundation as the signature fish, the chilli crab gravy takes a different direction—richer, more liquid, designed for soaking up with mantou or rice.

Textural Elements

Crab meat: Fresh, juicy, and sweet
Gravy: Rich and spicy with tomato-egg thickness
Mouthfeel: Luscious, coating, indulgent

Flavor Layers

Base: The familiar sambal provides continuity with the signature fish
Sweetness: More pronounced tomato sweetness
Umami: Crab essence enriches every spoonful
Spice: Present but balanced, allowing the crab to shine

Black Pepper Crayfish

Preparation Style A departure from the chilli-forward signatures, this dish showcases wok hei and pepper spice.

Texture

Crayfish: Sweet, bouncy, tender
Coating: Light sauce that doesn’t overwhelm
Aromatics: Fragrant black pepper cuts through

Flavor Profile

Pepper: Sharp, aromatic, warming heat
Sweetness: Natural crayfish sweetness enhanced, not masked
Savory base: Likely soy-based with garlic undertones
Balance: Lighter than the sambal dishes, offering palate contrast

Mee Goreng

Noodle Quality Yellow noodles achieve the ideal slippery texture that defines excellent mee goreng—each strand coated but distinct.

Components

Protein: Prawns and egg
Vegetables: Chye sim (Chinese flowering cabbage)
Sauce: Glossy chilli and tomato base

Flavor Character

Tanginess: Tomato provides acidity
Spice: Chilli heat complements the seafood dishes
Umami: Egg and prawn essence
Texture: Slippery noodles, crunchy vegetables, tender prawns

Portion Strategy Three size options ($5/$8/$12) allow flexible ordering for different group sizes, making it easy to balance the meal without over-ordering.

Recipe: Sambal Belacan Fish (Inspired Interpretation)

Note: This is an inspired home recipe based on the dish description, not the restaurant’s actual recipe.

Ingredients

For the Fish:

1 whole sole or pomfret (600-800g), cleaned and scaled
Oil for deep frying
Salt and white pepper
Cornstarch for dusting

For the Sambal Belacan:

15-20 dried chilies, soaked in hot water
10 fresh red chilies
8 shallots, peeled
6 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons belacan (shrimp paste), toasted
1 large onion, sliced
3 tablespoons tamarind pulp mixed with 4 tablespoons water, strained
3 tablespoons sugar (adjust to taste)
2 teaspoons salt (adjust to taste)
6 tablespoons cooking oil

For Garnish:

Lime wedges
Sliced cucumber

Cooking Instructions

Step 1: Prepare the Fish

Score the fish on both sides with diagonal cuts about 1 inch apart
Season inside and out with salt and white pepper
Pat completely dry with paper towels
Dust lightly with cornstarch, shaking off excess

Step 2: Make the Sambal Belacan

Drain soaked dried chilies and blend with fresh chilies, shallots, and garlic until fine
Heat oil in a wok over medium heat
Add blended paste and stir-fry for 8-10 minutes until fragrant and oil separates
Add crumbled toasted belacan, mix well
Add sliced onions, cook until softened
Pour in tamarind water, add sugar and salt
Simmer for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until thick and glossy
Taste and adjust seasoning—should be sweet, spicy, and tangy
Set aside and keep warm

Step 3: Fry the Fish

Heat oil for deep frying to 180°C (350°F)
Carefully lower the fish into the hot oil
Fry for 6-8 minutes without moving, until golden and crispy
Flip carefully and fry the other side for another 6-8 minutes
The fish should be deeply golden and crispy
Remove and drain on paper towels briefly

Step 4: Assemble

Place fried fish on a serving platter
Immediately spoon generous amounts of hot sambal belacan over the entire fish
The sambal should cover most of the fish
Garnish with lime wedges and cucumber slices
Serve immediately while fish is hot and crispy

Serving Suggestions Serve with steamed white rice and Chinese greens. The rice helps balance the intense flavors, while the greens provide refreshing contrast.

Dish Facets & Features

Textural Complexity

Old Lai Huat’s dishes demonstrate sophisticated textural interplay:

Crispy-soft contrast: Deep-fried exteriors giving way to tender flesh
Sauce viscosity: Thick, clingy sambals versus flowing gravies
Noodle slipperiness: Glossy mee goreng against crunchy vegetables
Seafood bounce: Natural spring in fresh crayfish and crab meat

Flavor Architecture

Umami Foundations Every dish builds on profound savory depth from seafood, belacan, and wok cooking techniques.

Heat Management The restaurant shows restraint with spice levels, prioritizing flavor complexity over pure heat. This makes dishes accessible while maintaining character.

Sweet-Spicy Balance A signature trait across multiple dishes—sugar tempers chili heat while enhancing other flavors.

Aromatic Layering Belacan, garlic, shallots, and chilies create multi-dimensional aromatics that stimulate appetite.

Cooking Techniques

Deep Frying Mastery Achieving crispy exteriors on whole fish requires precise temperature control and timing.

Wok Hei Development The smoky, charred essence from high-heat wok cooking appears in stir-fried dishes.

Sauce Reduction Creating thick, glossy sambals and gravies demands patient cooking and proper oil separation.

Freshness Preservation Seafood cookery that maintains natural sweetness and texture despite intense flavoring.

Heritage & Authenticity Markers

Traditional Techniques Methods unchanged since 1951, preserving historical cooking wisdom.

Family Recipes House-made sambals following generational formulas rather than commercial shortcuts.

No-Frills Presentation Food arrives focused on substance over style, true to zi char roots.

Communal Dining Design Portions and dishes conceived for sharing, reinforcing traditional eating culture.

Delivery Options

Based on the information provided, specific delivery details were not mentioned in the source article. However, for current delivery availability through platforms like GrabFood, Foodpanda, or Deliveroo, contacting the restaurant directly would be advisable:

Restaurant Contact: 91062839

Many traditional zi char restaurants have adapted to include delivery services post-pandemic, but quality can vary with dishes like deep-fried fish, which are best enjoyed immediately for optimal crispiness. The Chilli Crab and Black Pepper Crayfish may travel better than the Sambal Belacan Fish.

Essential Information

Address: 223 Rangoon Road, #01-01/02, Singapore 218460

Operating Hours:

Daily: 12pm to 2pm, 5pm to 11pm

Contact: 91062839

Dietary Notes: Not halal-certified

Reservations: Recommended for dinner service, especially weekends

Final Verdict

Old Lai Huat Seafood Restaurant delivers exactly what it promises: authentic, old-school Singaporean seafood zi char with a focus on their legendary sambal belacan fish. The food is bold, the portions generous, and the prices reflect quality seafood preparation. While the ambience won’t win design awards, that’s not the point—this is about preserving culinary heritage and serving seriously good food.

The restaurant excels at what matters most: creating complex, flavorful dishes that showcase fresh seafood and time-honored cooking techniques. Their signature sambal strikes a remarkable balance between heat, sweetness, and umami that explains why the recipe has endured for over 70 years.

Best For: Family dinners, seafood lovers, zi char enthusiasts, those seeking authentic Singaporean flavors

Skip If: You prefer quiet, air-conditioned dining or mild flavors

Must-Order: Sambal Belacan Fish (sole for value), Mee Goreng

Pro Tips:

Arrive early for dinner to avoid long waits
Order the Mee Goreng to balance the rich seafood
Come with a group to sample multiple dishes
Don’t wear your finest clothes—eating here is a hands-on, potentially messy affair