TungLok Teahouse: The Democratic Dumpling Haven

Ambience & First Impressions

Stepping into TungLok Teahouse at Square 2 feels like entering a modern interpretation of a traditional Cantonese teahouse. The space hums with a particular energy—families celebrating small victories, colleagues unwinding after work, elderly couples sharing their afternoon ritual. The interior strikes a balance between accessibility and intentionality: warm amber lighting pools over dark wood tables, while latticed screens partition the dining room into semi-private enclaves without sacrificing the communal buzz that defines yum cha culture.

The décor nods to heritage without museum-like reverence—calligraphy scrolls hang alongside contemporary art prints, and the chairs, while simple, offer surprising comfort for extended grazing sessions. At $16.80++ for their weekday High Tea Buffet, the atmosphere carries no pretension, only the genuine warmth of a space designed for conversation and abundance.

The Culinary Journey

Har Gow (Steamed Shrimp Dumplings)

The har gow arrives in bamboo steamers still exhaling wisps of vapor. The translucent skin—a delicate membrane stretched taut over plump shrimp—showcases that telltale pleated artistry, twelve folds that signal proper technique. Lifting one with chopsticks requires care; the wrapper possesses that ideal tension between resilience and fragility, what the Cantonese call “seen pei” or fresh skin.

The bite reveals textural poetry: the skin yields with gentle resistance before giving way to the prawn’s sweet crunch. The filling is generous—whole shrimp segments rather than minced paste—with a clean, oceanic sweetness punctuated by white pepper and a whisper of bamboo shoot for textural contrast. The translucent wrapper catches the light like alabaster, revealing pink-orange shrimp shadows within. Not perfection, but honest, well-executed comfort.

Siew Mai (Pork and Shrimp Dumplings)

These golden-crowned parcels sit in formation, their open tops revealing a mosaic of orange shrimp roe and yellow wrapper edges. The cylindrical dumplings possess a rustic charm—not overly refined, but generous in spirit. The wrapper, made from wheat rather than rice flour, offers a tender, almost velvety chew.

The filling delivers umami in waves: pork provides fatty richness, shrimp adds textural snap, and shiitake mushrooms contribute earthy depth. A dot of crab roe crowns each piece, its minerality cutting through the richness. The golden-yellow hue of the wrapper, deepening to amber where it pleats, creates visual warmth that matches the filling’s savory comfort.

Char Siu Bao (Barbecued Pork Buns)

The steamed buns arrive cloud-white, their surfaces smooth and glossy with a characteristic “smile” crack revealing the mahogany filling within. The bun itself is ethereally soft—pulling one apart releases steam and reveals the fluffy, slightly sweet dough structure that collapses on the tongue like sweetened air.

The char siu filling strikes that essential balance between sweet and savory: caramelized pork shoulder in a sauce that tastes of honey, five-spice, and soy, with enough viscosity to coat without becoming cloying. The contrast is what makes this dish sing—pillowy white softness against sticky, ruby-red pork; subtle sweetness against complex umami; yielding texture against tender meat shreds. At this price point, the char siu is honest rather than luxurious, but the execution understands the assignment.

Wu Kok (Taro Puffs)

These golden orbs arrive at the table still crackling from the fryer, their surfaces covered in a distinctive netting of crispy strands that shatter audibly at first bite. The exterior possesses an almost coral-like texture—brittle, delicate, and geometrically intricate. The deep amber color speaks to proper frying technique, oil at precisely the right temperature to create that lacy shell.

Beneath the crust lies mashed taro—purple-grey and creamy, naturally sweet with earthy undertones. The filling often includes diced char siu, creating pockets of savory richness within the sweet taro matrix. The textural contrast is dramatic: from shattering brittleness to creamy smoothness in a single bite. These are best consumed immediately; even minutes of cooling softens that essential crunch.

Chee Cheong Fun (Rice Noodle Rolls)

The rice noodle rolls arrive as pristine white sheets folded over themselves, their surfaces glistening with a thin coat of oil. The silken noodles possess an almost translucent quality, like fine porcelain, with filling visible through the delicate wrapper. Whether stuffed with shrimp or char siu, the principle remains: maximum silkiness.

The texture is slippery, sensual—the rice rolls slide across the palate with barely any resistance, their gentle chew releasing the filling’s flavors. Doused in sweet soy sauce (thick, molasses-dark, faintly sweet) and sesame oil, sometimes scattered with scallions and toasted sesame seeds, the dish is simplicity elevated. The interplay of textures—silky noodle, tender filling, crunchy sesame—demonstrates why this humble dish has endured for generations.

The Verdict

TungLok Teahouse delivers precisely what it promises: accessible abundance without cutting corners. The High Tea Buffet offers genuine value, allowing diners to explore the dim sum canon without financial anxiety. Dishes are executed with competence rather than artistry, but in the context of unlimited servings at $16.80++, this is no criticism—it’s democratic dining at its finest.


Carousel: Halal Harmony by the Water

Ambience & Atmosphere

Carousel at Royal Plaza on Scotts presents a different proposition entirely—a bright, expansive dining hall where natural light pours through floor-to-ceiling windows, and the design language speaks international hotel elegance rather than traditional teahouse intimacy. The space is airy, almost cavernous, with high ceilings and a color palette of creams, whites, and warm golds.

The buffet stations sprawl across the room in islands of plenty, each dedicated to different cuisines. But during the High Tea Dim Sum session, the focus narrows to the halal-certified Cantonese offerings that have made this buffet a favorite among Muslim diners and families seeking certified options. The atmosphere carries a cosmopolitan energy—tourists, business groups, multi-generational families converging over shared tables.

At $50++ on weekdays (or $45++ with current promotions), Carousel positions itself in the mid-tier, offering hotel polish and halal assurance.

The Culinary Experience

Singapore Siew Mai in Chilli Crab Sauce

This is fusion with intention—a dish that announces its Singaporean identity proudly. The siew mai themselves follow traditional construction: pork replaced with chicken and seafood to maintain halal compliance, wrapped in yellow wheat wrappers with the characteristic open-top design.

But the revelation is the sauce: a halal interpretation of Singapore’s iconic chilli crab gravy, sweet-spicy-savory, with tomato-chilli complexity and a hint of egg that creates silken richness. The sauce clings to the dumpling’s pleated edges, each crevice catching pools of orange-red gravy. The color is sunset vibrant—oranges bleeding into reds, flecked with green cilantro and red chilli fragments.

The texture journey moves from tender dumpling skin to bouncy seafood filling, all enrobed in velvety sauce that tastes simultaneously comforting and adventurous. It’s a dish that understands its audience: locals seeking familiar flavors in dim sum form, tourists wanting “Singaporean” credentials.

Steamed Prawn Har Kow in Truffle Egg White Sauce

Here, Carousel elevates the humble har gao with luxury ingredients, though the execution reveals the challenges of mass buffet production. The dumplings arrive swimming in a pale, ivory-colored sauce—whipped egg whites enriched with truffle oil and chicken stock.

The har gao skin shows competent pleating, translucent enough to reveal the pink prawns within, though occasionally thicker than ideal. The prawns themselves are fresh, with good snap, seasoned simply to let the truffle sauce provide complexity.

The truffle egg white sauce is polarizing—it adds undeniable richness and aromatic intrigue, the earthy truffle notes playing against the prawns’ oceanic sweetness. But it also obscures the dumpling’s inherent elegance. The sauce’s texture is foamy, almost mousse-like, coating the tongue in a way that’s luxurious but heavy. The pale cream color against pink shrimp creates a delicate visual, but one wonders if simplicity might have served the prawns better.

Butterfly Seafood Dumplings

These are showstoppers in presentation—deep-fried dumplings pinched in the center and fanned at the edges to create a butterfly wing effect. The golden-brown color is even, suggesting careful frying, and the crimped edges create textural variety from a single dumpling.

The filling combines fish, prawn, and vegetables into a cohesive paste—not distinct chunks but an emulsified mixture that spreads evenly through the wrapper. The flavor is delicate, almost subtle, relying on white pepper and sesame oil for aromatic lift. The wrapper achieves that ideal fried dumpling texture: crackling-crisp at the thin edges, slightly chewy where it thickens at the center, all while maintaining structural integrity.

Visually, these are stunning—the butterfly shape invites playful plating, and the golden hue catches light beautifully. They’re dipped in sweet plum sauce (deep burgundy, glossy) or chilli sauce (bright red, flecked with seeds), creating color contrasts that photograph beautifully.

Wok-Fried Salted Egg Chicken Cubes

A contemporary classic that’s conquered Singapore’s dining scene, this dish translates salted egg yolk’s umami richness to dim sum service. Chicken cubes are battered and fried until golden, then wok-tossed in a sauce of salted egg yolk, butter, curry leaves, and chillies.

The result is texturally complex: crispy batter yielding to tender chicken, all coated in a grainy, creamy sauce that clings persistently. The color is distinctive—pale yellow sauce scattered with dark green curry leaves and red chilli slices, creating a traffic-light visual against white serving plates.

The flavor is intensely savory, almost aggressively so—the salted egg yolk provides deep umami and richness, butter adds silkiness, curry leaves contribute aromatic fragrance, and chillies offer background heat. It’s rich, indulgent, and best consumed in small portions between lighter steamed items. This dish represents modern Singaporean-Chinese cuisine’s willingness to embrace bold, unsubtle flavors.

Seaweed Corn Rolls

A vegetarian offering that surprises with its textural playfulness. Sweet corn kernels and chopped seaweed are bound together, wrapped in tofu skin, then deep-fried to a light golden brown.

The exterior achieves that ideal tofu skin crispness—delicate, shattering, almost brittle. Inside, the corn provides pops of sweetness and textural bursts, while seaweed contributes minerality and umami depth. The color contrast is lovely: golden wrapper revealing yellow corn kernels and dark green seaweed fragments.

It’s a lighter option in a sea of richness, offering a different flavor profile that refreshes the palate. The execution demonstrates technical skill—tofu skin is notoriously difficult to work with, prone to breaking or becoming soggy, but here it maintains integrity even in buffet service.

The Verdict

Carousel succeeds in making dim sum accessible to a broader audience while maintaining quality standards befitting its hotel setting. The halal certification doesn’t feel like compromise but rather thoughtful adaptation, and the fusion touches (chilli crab sauce, truffle egg white) show creativity beyond mere replication. At $45-50++, it occupies a sweet spot between affordability and occasion-worthy dining.


Jade at The Fullerton: Colonial Elegance Meets Cantonese Mastery

Ambience & Setting

Jade exists in rarified air, both literally and figuratively. Located within The Fullerton Hotel, itself a monument to colonial grandeur repurposed as luxury accommodation, the restaurant occupies a space where history whispers from every corner. The dining room features soaring ceilings, marble floors that catch and multiply light, and windows overlooking Singapore’s historic waterfront where tongkangs once moored.

The interior design speaks refined minimalism with Chinese accents: jade-green silk panels, dark rosewood furniture, and contemporary art that references traditional ink paintings without pastiche. Tables are generously spaced—a luxury in land-scarce Singapore—and the service unfolds with choreographed precision.

At $68++ per person for the Weekend Yum Cha (minimum two diners), Jade positions itself firmly in the premium category. The atmosphere reflects this: hushed conversations, the gentle clink of fine porcelain, an absence of the cheerful chaos that characterizes more casual dim sum venues. This is dim sum as occasion, as experience, as culinary theater.

The Gastronomic Journey

Bak Kut Teh Xiao Long Bao

This is fusion with cultural intelligence—taking Singapore’s beloved pork rib soup (bak kut teh) and encapsulating its essence within Shanghai’s iconic soup dumpling format. The result is a dish that speaks multiple Chinese dialects simultaneously.

The dumpling arrives in a delicate bamboo steamer, its skin stretched impossibly thin—translucent enough to see the dark broth swirling inside, yet strong enough to contain liquid under tension. The pleating demonstrates technical mastery: 18-20 delicate folds creating a topknot that’s both functional and beautiful.

Lifting the dumpling requires ritual: chopsticks grasp the topknot, a soup spoon receives the dumpling, a small bite releases the broth. The soup floods the spoon—dark, aromatic, intensely herbal. It tastes of white pepper (the Teochew variety, more floral than black pepper), garlic, star anise, and pork essence concentrated through long simmering. The broth is nearly black-brown, its opacity belying the clarity of flavor.

The skin, once breached, reveals tender pork filling—fatty, melting, seasoned with the same spices as the soup. The textural journey moves from silken skin to molten broth to yielding pork in seconds. The color palette is earthy: brown broth, pale dumpling skin, the occasional green garnish of cilantro.

This dish encapsulates what premium dim sum aspires to: technical excellence, cultural resonance, and flavor that justifies the price point.

Crispy Lobster Dumpling

A study in contrasts, this dumpling achieves the difficult balance between crispy and delicate. The wrapper is fried to a delicate golden-brown, achieving a lattice-like crispness that shatters audibly. Yet beneath this brittle shell lies tender lobster meat, its sweetness preserved rather than obscured.

The lobster filling is luxurious—whole pieces rather than minced paste, with that characteristic sweet-saline flavor and springy texture that signifies freshness. It’s seasoned minimally: perhaps a touch of ginger, a whisper of white pepper, allowing the crustacean to speak for itself.

The color work is deliberate: the golden-brown shell against white lobster meat, sometimes with coral-orange roe for additional visual interest. A garnish of microgreens and a delicate sauce (perhaps lemon-butter or light XO) provides finishing touches without overwhelming.

Texturally, it’s a revelation with each bite: the initial crack of the crispy shell, the tender lobster yielding easily, the interplay of temperatures if consumed immediately. This is luxury dim sum—a dish that showcases premium ingredients with technique that elevates rather than disguises.

Abalone Siew Mai

Abalone signals prestige in Chinese cuisine, its price and preparation requirements making it a marker of serious intent. Here, thin slices of braised abalone crown traditional siew mai, creating a surf-and-turf composition.

The base siew mai follows classic construction: pork and shrimp bound with shiitake mushrooms, wrapped in yellow wheat skins with characteristic open tops. But atop each dumpling sits a carefully braised abalone slice—tender from hours of cooking, brown-golden from its braising liquid, carrying flavors of oyster sauce, Shaoxing wine, and chicken stock.

The abalone provides a different textural experience from the shrimp or pork filling—it’s simultaneously tender and slightly chewy, with a unique mouthfeel that’s difficult to compare to anything else. Its flavor is subtle, almost elusive: oceanic but refined, enhanced by the braising liquid’s complexity.

The visual impact is immediate: the abalone’s dark brown-gold sitting atop the dumpling creates a tiered presentation, signaling luxury before the first bite. It’s garnished simply—perhaps a dot of fish roe, a cilantro leaf—allowing the abalone to command attention.

This dish represents traditional dim sum’s luxury tier, where ingredients’ cost and rarity become part of the experience’s value proposition.

Sautéed Live Tiger Prawn

Though not dim sum in the traditional steamed-or-fried sense, this dish appears on Jade’s Weekend Yum Cha menu as part of their “Jade Signatures”—demonstrating how contemporary dim sum service expands beyond bite-sized items.

The prawns arrive whole, heads intact, shells showing the orange-red blush of freshness. They’re cooked minimally—quickly sautéed to preserve the flesh’s translucent-white appearance and snappy texture. The seasoning is simple: garlic, scallions, perhaps a touch of Shaoxing wine, allowing the prawn’s natural sweetness to dominate.

Texturally, these prawns demonstrate what “fresh” means in premium contexts: the flesh snaps back when bitten, releasing sweet juices, with none of the mushiness that signals age or improper handling. The shells, while inedible, contribute flavor—their essence infused into the light sauce.

The presentation emphasizes the prawns’ size and freshness: they’re arranged on white porcelain to showcase their coral-orange shells and white flesh, garnished minimally to avoid distraction. This is ingredient-forward cooking, where quality speaks louder than technique.

Braised Pork Knuckle

Another departure from traditional dim sum, this dish showcases low-and-slow Cantonese braising technique. The pork knuckle has been braised for hours in a master stock—soy sauce, rock sugar, star anise, cinnamon, and secret aromatics that each kitchen guards jealously.

The result is meat that yields to chopsticks, skin that’s become gelatinous without being slimy, and fat that’s rendered translucent. The color is deep mahogany, almost black at the edges, with a glossy sheen from the braising liquid’s reduced sugars.

The flavor is complex: salty-sweet-aromatic, with layers that unfold—initial sweetness giving way to soy’s salinity, then the warm spice notes, finally the pork’s inherent richness. The texture is unctuously soft, almost melting, with the skin providing gentle resistance before collapsing.

This dish represents Cantonese cuisine’s mastery of time and patience, where hours of cooking transform tough cuts into luxurious experiences. It’s served in small portions appropriate to dim sum service, but its intensity means a little goes far.

The Verdict

Jade delivers dim sum as fine dining, where each item receives the attention and ingredient quality typically reserved for evening tasting menus. At $68++ for up to 15 items, the value proposition depends on one’s priorities: those seeking volume will find better deals elsewhere, but those valuing technical excellence, ingredient quality, and refined atmosphere will find Jade compelling. This is dim sum where the experience—the setting, the service, the precision—matters as much as the food itself.


Madame Fan: Where Cocktails Meet Dumplings

Ambience & Experience

Madame Fan occupies the colonial-era NCO Club at Beach Road, a heritage building that’s been transformed into a space that feels simultaneously nostalgic and contemporary. The interior plays with Art Deco flourishes, jade-green velvet seating, brass accents, and vintage Chinese advertising posters that evoke 1930s Shanghai glamour.

But what distinguishes Madame Fan is its commitment to pairing dim sum with cocktails—a combination that feels both transgressive and inevitable. The bar stretches along one wall, backlit bottles creating an amber glow, while mixologists craft drinks that reference Chinese flavors: baijiu, Shaoxing wine, chrysanthemum, lychee.

At $78++ for the Dim Sum Drink Sum buffet (or $98++ for the Guzzle option with champagne), this is premium pricing that includes free-flow cocktails, wine, and beer. The atmosphere skews younger, louder, more celebratory than traditional yum cha. This is dim sum as party, as social event, as Instagram opportunity.

The Culinary & Cocktail Experience

Sri Lankan Mud Crab Wonton Shumai

This dish announces Madame Fan’s willingness to push boundaries. Traditional shumai construction meets premium Sri Lankan mud crab, known for its sweet, delicate flesh and seasonal availability.

The dumpling wrapper is translucent yellow, allowing the pink-white crab meat to show through. The pleating demonstrates care—multiple folds creating both visual interest and structural integrity. The filling is generous: lumps of crab meat bound minimally, allowing individual fibers to remain distinct.

The flavor is remarkably pure—the crab’s natural sweetness dominates, enhanced subtly by ginger and white pepper but not masked. The texture offers the crab’s characteristic tenderness, slightly fibrous but yielding, with a mineral sweetness that’s almost buttery.

Visually, the dumpling is a study in delicate colors: pale yellow wrapper, pink-white crab meat, perhaps a garnish of ikura (salmon roe) adding orange bursts. It’s photographed beautifully against dark plates, creating drama through contrast.

Paired with a cocktail—perhaps a light, citrus-forward gin-based drink or a delicate sparkling wine—the combination works surprisingly well. The drink’s acidity cuts through the crab’s richness, refreshing the palate between bites.

Foie Gras, Sweet Corn, Minced Chicken Dumpling

This is fusion that courts controversy—foie gras, that most European of luxury ingredients, folded into a Chinese dumpling alongside sweet corn and chicken. The result is rich, almost aggressively indulgent.

The dumpling skin is wheat-based, slightly thicker to contain the fatty filling. Inside, the foie gras melts into the chicken and corn, creating a mousse-like consistency that’s simultaneously creamy and grainy. The corn provides textural pops and sweetness that balances the foie gras’s liver-rich intensity.

The color palette is earth-toned: beige wrapper, pale pink-beige filling flecked with yellow corn kernels. It’s not traditionally beautiful, but there’s an honesty to the presentation that eschews garnish for ingredient transparency.

The flavor is divisive: intensely rich, with the foie gras’s mineral, iron-like notes dominating, the corn’s sweetness providing relief, the chicken adding textural bulk. It’s a dumpling that requires palate breaks—perhaps a sip of champagne, a bite of pickled vegetables, a moment of rest.

This dish represents contemporary dim sum’s experimental edge, where tradition becomes suggestion rather than rulebook.

Black Truffle Dumpling

Truffles, like foie gras, signal luxury ingredients being incorporated into dim sum vocabulary. These dumplings feature black truffle—typically preserved or frozen rather than fresh, for practical and cost reasons—mixed with pork or mushroom filling.

The aroma hits first: that distinctive earthy, almost gasoline-like truffle scent that’s immediately recognizable. The dumpling wrapper is standard—translucent, delicately pleated—allowing the dark-flecked filling to show through.

The flavor delivers umami intensity: the truffle’s earthiness, the pork’s savory richness, perhaps mushrooms amplifying the funky, forest-floor notes. The texture is tender, almost creamy, with truffle pieces providing slight resistance.

Visually, the black truffle flecks create intrigue—dark fragments suspended in lighter filling, visible through the translucent skin like geological formations. It’s plated simply, allowing the ingredient to signal luxury without excessive garnish.

Paired with red wine—perhaps a light Pinot Noir—the combination creates interesting resonance, the wine’s earth notes echoing the truffle’s character.

Sweet and Sour Kurobuta Pork with Lychee and Pineapple

This dish reimagines sweet and sour pork, elevating it through premium Kurobuta pork (prized for marbling and tenderness) and fresh fruit instead of canned.

The pork is battered and fried to golden-brown crispness, then wok-tossed in a sauce that balances sweet (from lychee and pineapple), sour (from vinegar and citrus), and savory (from soy and aromatics). The Kurobuta pork provides noticeably better texture—tender, juicy, with fat that melts rather than chews tough.

The color palette is vibrant: golden-brown pork, pink-white lychee flesh, yellow pineapple chunks, glossy orange-red sauce creating a tropical, almost festive appearance. It’s plated in individual portions rather than family-style, emphasizing presentation.

The texture journey moves from crispy batter to tender pork to yielding fruit, with the sauce providing slick, tongue-coating richness. The flavor profile is unabashedly sweet-sour-savory, hitting primary taste receptors in waves.

Paired with a cocktail—perhaps a rum-based drink with tropical notes, or a tart, fruity option—the combination becomes almost dessert-like in its sweetness, a playful rather than refined pairing.

Australian Striploin with Sarawak Black Pepper

Premium beef receives Cantonese treatment: quickly wok-fried with Sarawak black pepper, a variety known for its fruity, aromatic character compared to standard black pepper’s simple heat.

The beef is sliced thinly, cooked to medium-rare, maintaining a pink center that speaks to quality and technique. The Sarawak pepper forms a dark crust, its oils released through high heat, creating aromatic complexity that’s floral, spicy, and slightly citrusy.

The texture is tender—Australian striploin provides good marbling and bite without excessive chew. The beef’s natural flavors dominate, enhanced rather than masked by the pepper treatment.

Visually, the contrast is striking: pink-red beef against dark pepper crust, garnished simply with scallions or cilantro. It’s plated Western-style, acknowledging the ingredient’s provenance while honoring Cantonese technique.

Paired with red wine or a robust cocktail, this dish bridges cultures—premium Western ingredient, Eastern preparation, global consumption context.

The Verdict

Madame Fan delivers dim sum as social experience rather than culinary pilgrimage. The food is ambitious, sometimes successful, occasionally overwrought—but always interesting. The cocktail pairings transform the occasion, making this less about honoring tradition and more about creating new rituals. At $78-98++, the value includes atmosphere, drinks, and Instagram moments as much as food quality. It’s polarizing by design, appealing to those who see tradition as starting point rather than destination.


Reflections Across Four Tables

These four establishments demonstrate dim sum’s remarkable adaptability in Singapore’s dining landscape. TungLok Teahouse proves that accessibility need not mean compromise, delivering competent classics that honor tradition through honest execution. Carousel demonstrates thoughtful adaptation, making dim sum inclusive through halal certification while incorporating fusion elements that speak to Singapore’s multicultural identity.

Jade at The Fullerton represents dim sum elevated to fine dining, where technique, ingredients, and atmosphere justify premium pricing for those seeking occasion-worthy experiences. Madame Fan pushes furthest from tradition, courting controversy through ingredient choices and cocktail pairings that reimagine what dim sum can be in contemporary contexts.

Each offers different value propositions, serving different needs and budgets. Together, they map Singapore’s dining complexity: respect for tradition coexisting with willingness to innovate, premium experiences available alongside democratic abundance, global influences filtered through local sensibilities.

The textures, hues, and flavors encountered across these four venues tell stories—of technique passed through generations, of ingredients traveling global supply chains, of cultural adaptation and culinary ambition. Dim sum in Singapore is not static museum piece but living cuisine, evolving while maintaining connection to its Cantonese roots.

Whether seeking $16.80 comfort or $98 indulgence, Singapore’s dim sum landscape offers remarkable depth. The challenge is not finding good dim sum, but rather matching one’s mood, budget, and occasion to the right teahouse table.